| -MAIN
MENU- |
 |
|
|
|
 |
Peak Korjenevskoy - 7105 m.
MOUNTAINEERING. CENTRAL PAMIR |
 |
| The region comprises a group of ranges with
more then 50 mountains over 6000 metres. The biggest is the
Academi Nauk Range, which is approached from the north-west
by Peter the Great Range. At the meeting place of the two is
the Pamir's highest mountain, Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communizma)
7495ms. Further to the north, in the Academi Nauk Range, is
the mountain Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7105ms). These two
giants overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200ms), with
a finy lake and a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains.
The place is encircled by three glaciers, Walter, traube and
Moskvina, and used as the startng point to both summits, Ice-climbing
enthusiasts will find there good seracs for practice.
The base camp on the moraine is an oazis of civilization
in the desert of mountains. Helicopter provides the only link
between the base camp and the outside world. The noise of
rotating propeller is the most welcome sound for climbers
in the area. In spite of all these difficulties, the trk is
worth trying. The Pamir tract, mostly uninhabited and dotted
with endless desolate clearings and occasional lively oasises,
impresses by it's gradeur and mystery.
The northern slopes also have difficult routes, however,
the route via the northern ridge does not pose serious technical
problems. The classical route to the top of Mt. Peak Evgenia
Korjenevskaya is laid on the southern slope, a convenience
for climbers. Both routes (V-UIAA) are well-explored and,
under normal conditions, quite safe. The magnificence of the
panoramic view from eother summit defies description. It has
to be tried in person. Central Pamir is known for it's mostly
stable weather with some exceptions in the areas of Mts. Peak
Ismoili Somoni (Communizm) and Peak Revolutsii.
Mt. Evgenia Korjenevskaya was explored in 1910 by a Russian
scientist Nikolai Korjenevsky, who named the mountain after
his wife Evgenia. The first ascent of the mountain was made
in October 1953. Coping with high altitude on Peak E. Korjenavskaya
proved easier than other mountains of comparable hight. This
is why it is considered an agreeable place for acclimatization.
|
|
PEAK E. KORJENEVSKAYA (7105MS) Classical
route: via southern fidge
| Day 1 |
Arrival to Dushanbe. Accomodation in hotel. |
| Day 2 |
Breakfast. transfer to alpin base "Varzob" (53 km.
1. 5
hours). Base camp 1. |
| Day 3-6 |
Walking and Shot climbing. First acclimatization. Back
to). Base camp 2, 3, 4, 5. |
| Day 7 |
Helicopter transfer Dushanbe-Moskvina lade (1h40min);
H-4200 m. Base camp 6. |
| Day 8-10 |
Acclimatisation. ). H-4200 m. Base camp 7. |
| Day 11 |
Moskvina glade-Mt. Peak Chetyriokh. Ascent via eastern
slope (4-5hs)Camping. H-4800 m. camp 8. |
| Day 12 |
Camp (4800ms) - Summit (6300ms) – back to Base Camp
H-4800 m. camp 9. |
| Day 13 |
Back to base camp. H-4200 m. Base camp 10. |
| Day 14 |
Rest. H-4200 m. Base camp 11. |
| Day 15-16 |
Base camp-Mt. Peak E. Korjenevskaya Camp (5100ms). Via moraine
up the glacier (5-6hs) H-5100 m. camp 12. |
| Day 17 |
Camp (5100m)-Camp (5800ms). Up the glacier and western
ice-snow slope (4-5hs). H-5800 m. camp 13. |
| Day 18 |
Camp (5800m) - Camp (6300ms). traverse across western
slope to southern ridge (6-7hs). H-6300m. camp 14. |
| Day 19 |
Camp (6300ms) - Summit - Camp (6300ms) (7-8hs).
H-6300 m. camp 15. |
| Day 20 |
Camp (6300ms) - Camp (5100ms) (5-6hs).
H-5100 m. camp 16. |
| Day 21 |
Camp (5100ms) - Base camp (4-5hs).
H-4200 m. Base camp 17. |
| Day 22 |
Reserved. Rest, sauna and showing.
H-4200 m. Base camp 18. |
| Day 23 |
Base camp-Dushanbe. Helicopter transfer (3h20min).
transfer to hotel. Accomodation in hotel. |
| Day 24 |
Breakfast. Full day an excursion on city. Hotel, rest. |
| Day 25 |
Departure to home. |
| Days |
25 |
| Season |
10. 07 - 31. 08. |
| Min. group of |
4 - 15 |
The price includes:
all transfers, accommodation in hotels, base camp, in mountain in
the tent, escort guied, mountain guide, interpretor, cooks, sherpa,
SS, enteries fees, on the base camp radio communication, doctor,
sauna and showing, foods, meals 3 times a day.
Not includes:
visa – Tajikistan – 60 EURO per/per; Visa support – 30 EURO per/per,
mountain permites in Tajikistan–100 EURO/$, per/per, ecological
fees – 1 EURO per/per/day. helicopter flight, license for ascent.
|
|
|
-BEST TOURS- |
|
|
|
|
