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Peak "COMMUNIZM"-
7489 m. CENTRAL PAMIR |
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The
region comprises a group of ranges with more then 50 mountains
over 6000 metres. The biggest is the Academy of science
Range, which is approached from the north-west by Peter
the Great Range. At the meeting place of the two is the
Pamir's highest mountain, Peak Communizma (7495ms).
Further to the north, in the Academi Nauk Range, is the
mountain Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7105ms). These two
giants overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200ms),
with a finy lake and a spectacular view of the surrounding
mountains. The place is encircled by three glaciers, Walter,
traube and Moskvina, and used as the starting point to both
summits, Ice-climbing enthusiasts will find there good seracs
for practice.
The
base camp on the moraine is an oazis of civilization in
the desert of mountains. Helicopter provides the only link
between the base camp and the outside world. The noise of
rotating propeller is the most welcome sound for climbers
in the area. In spite of all these difficulties, the track
is worth trying. The Pamir tract, mostly uninhabited and
dotted with endless desolate clearings and occasional lively
oasises, impresses by it's tremendeous and mystery.
Pamir's highest mountain, Peak of Ismoili Somoni (Communism),
plunges to the south in three-kilometer wall, one of the
most difficult ones in the world. The northern slopes also
have difficult routes, however, the route via the northern
ridge does not pose serious technical problems. Helicopter
assisted programms apart from being time-saving, give a
birds eye view of the alpine scenary. Mt. Peak Communizm
was explored in 1928. A British party of eight climbers
were the first Europians to reach the summit in 1962. The
mountains is notorious for it's winds even during clear
skies. The programme is rather difficult for unexperienced
climbers who have not gone through a prior acclimatisation
spell on Mt. Peak E. Korjenevskaya. However, well-trained
and skilled mountaineers will be able to reach the loftiest
summit of the 'Roof of the World" in a short period
of time. MT. PEAK OF ISMOILI SOMONI (COMMUNIZM)- 7495m.
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Classical route: From Walter Glacier via Pamir big Plato
and Mt. Peak Dushanbe (6900ms).
Day 1 |
Arrival to Dushanbe. Accomodation in hotel. |
Day 2 |
Breakfast, drive to Alpin base "Varzob" (53km, 1. 5
hours). Overnight in H-1500 m. Base camp. |
Day 3-6 |
Breakfast, light climbing in area. Acclimatization. Night. H-1500
m. Base camp. |
Day 7 |
Helicopter transfer Dushanbe-Moskvina Glade (4200ms) (1h40hs)+
1. 40. H-4200 m. Camping 1. |
Day 8 |
Acclimatisation. On Moscvina glacier H-4200m. H-4200 m. Camping
3. |
Day 9-11 |
9-11 Acclimatization an the Moscwin glacier H-4200 m. Camping
4-5. |
Day 12 |
Moskvina glade-Mt. Peak Chetyriyokh. Ascent via eastern slope.
Camp 6 (H-4800ms). |
Day 13 |
Camp (4800ms) - Summit – back to Base camp (8-9hs) H-4200 m.
Camping 7. |
Day 14 |
Rest. H-4200 m. Camping 8. |
Day 15 |
Preparation for ascent. H-4200 m. Camping 9. |
Day 16 |
Base camp - Mt. Peak of Ismoili Somoni ( Communizma). track up
Walter glacier. traverce through northern slope. (4-5hs). Camp (5100ms).
H-100m. Camping 10. |
Day 17 |
Camp (5100ms) - Camp (5800ms). Northern ridge (4-5hs). H-5800
m. Camping 11. |
Day 18 |
Camp (5800ms) - Camp (6100ms). Pamir big Plateau (4-5hs) H-6100
m. Camping 12. |
Day 19 |
Camp (6900ms) northern ice-snow slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8hs).
H-6900 m. Camping 13. |
Day 20 |
Camp (6900ms) - summit - back to camp (6900ms) (8-9hs). H-6900
m. Camping 14. |
Day 21 |
Camp (6900ms) - Camp (6100ms). Pamir Big Plateau. H-6100 m. Camping
15. |
Day 22 |
Camp (6100ms) - Camp (5100ms) (5-6hs). H-5100 m. Camping 1. |
Day 23 |
Camp (5100ms) -Base camp (3-4hs). H-4200 m. Camping 1. |
Day 24 |
Reserved. Rest, sauna. |
Day 25 |
Base camp - to Dushanbe, by Helicopter transfer (3h20min). Hotel.
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Day 26 |
Breakfast. Full day excursions on city. Hotel, rest. |
Day 27 |
Departure to home. |
Days |
27 |
Season |
10. 07 - 31. 08 |
Min. group of |
4 - 15 |
The price tour is: EURO/pax |
1-2 |
3-4 |
5-6 |
7-9 |
10-14 |
15-19 |
1884 |
1744 |
1469 |
1264 |
1185 |
1095 |
The price includes: all transfers, accommodation
in hotels, base camp, in mountain in the tent, escort guied, mountain
guide, interpretor, cooks, sherpa, SS, enteries fees, on the base
camp radio communication, doctor, sauna and showing, foods, meals
3 times a day.
Not includes: visa – Tajikistan – 60 EURO per/per; Visa support
– 30 EURO per/per, mountain permites in Tajikistan–100 EURO/$, per/per,
ecological fees – 1 EURO per/per/day. helicopter flight, license
for ascent. |
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