Traditionally the central and northwestern parts of the Pamir
are considered one region. Two of the three peaks over 7,000
m above sea level in the Pamir are in this area - Mt. Communism
(7,495 m) and Mt. Evgenii Korzhenevskoy (7,105m)- and there
is also the Fedchenko glacier, the largest in Central Asia (71.2
km long). This region consists of a series of mountain ranges
that run in a latitudinal direction and are connected to one
another by the Akademia Nauk (Academy of Science) range. There
are two areas with base camps. The first is the Moskvina camp,
which lies near a little lake on the plateau covered with edelweiss
and wormwood that extend up to where the Waltera and Moskvina
glaciers converge, at 4,100 m. This camp is the starting point
for the climbs up Mt. Communism and Mt. Korzhenevskoy. The second
camp is Suloev (or Fortambek), on the plateau of the same name,
where the For-tambek glacier points northwards, opposite the
Tramplinniy (Springboard) glacier. The climate in this region
is characteristically quite variable. The mountain climbing
season is very short; the best period is from mid-July to August
20.
Central part of Pamir presents two giants for climbing: Communism
(7495 m) and Korzhenevskoy (7105 m) peaks, which are standing
in front of each other. Both of them has extra class routes
and classical ones for easy climbing with pre acclimatisation
as usual up to Pamirskoe Plateau.
Peak Communism (7495 m).
Mt. Comrnunism This is an awe-inspiring rock and ice pyramid
with a quadrangular base that has four distinct faces. The eastern
one was climbed for the first time by Evgenii Abalakov in 1933
via a difficult route with a very complicated access, along
the Bivuachniy (Bivouac) glacier On the western face is the
classic route, Burevestnik, which runs along the ridge. The
third face plunges down to the south for 2,000 meters on the
Beliaeva glacier; it is quite steep characterized by the so
called Puso (Paunch) a rock wall from 600 to 800 meters high
with an incline of more than 80°. Here are the most difficult
of 25 routes up Mt. Communism.
(In the foto to the right) South-Western face of peak Communism,
seen from the summit of Russia peak.
The South-Western face was first climbed in 1968 by E. Mislovskiy,
who kept to the right of the Puso. The true "Paunch"
route was climbed only in 1977 by A. Nepomniashkiy. Later, other
routes were opened by K. Valiev and V, Solonnikov.
The face looking over the "Springboard" glacier has
not been climbed yet. It is considered impossible to conquer
because of the extremely dangerous icefall that descends onto
the Pamirskoe plateau.
The normal route up Mt. Communism, on the northern face, crosses
the Pamirskoe plateau. This is one of the highest and largest
plateaus in the world: about three km wide and twelve km long
from west to east. The lowest point is at 4,700 meters altitude,
the highest 6,300 m. At 6,000 m there is a little rocky peak
called Parachutistov (Parachuters) in honour of the tragic expedition
of Soviet military parachuters that was organized in 1967 for
training and sporting purposes; many parachuters were killed
when the strong wind caused them to crash against the rock,
while the others managed to save their lives by opening their
parachutes after they had passed over the wind belt.
The Barodkin Route up Mt. Cornmunism (7,495 m, 5A) - from North
side. Classical routes
The normal route up Mt. Communism winds up from the Waltera
glacier on to the northern face of the massif. It was opened
in 1968 byJ. Barodkin along the ridge that bears his name. On
a technical level it is not too difficult; it can be compared
to the routes up Lenin Peak. Yet it is rated 5 A because of
the high altitude. After careful acclimatization that includes
a climb to the snow-covered Pamirskoe plateau and back, the
route to the top takes about a week.
(In the foto to the right) Northern slopes of peak Communism,
seen from the glacier Waltera.
It begins at the Moskvina base camp and goes up towards the
south along the Waltera glacier, which you must cross in. a
westerly direction after about a one-hour walk. Continue along
the steep and rubbly ridge up to camp I, at ^,300 m, above the
summit of the large rock triangle. In most cases this triangle
is climbed over to the left, along the inclined ledge and the
snow gully. This is the easiest way, but it is risky because
it goes under the glacier icefall. From camp I the itinerary
follows the rock ridge, which is often encrusted with ice, up
to two snow domes called Grudi (Breasts, 6,200 m). In high season
there are clear tracks of this part of the route, and in the
more complicated sections a permanent rope has been set up.
From here you have a level walk to camp 2 (6,200 m), which is
in the Pamirskoe plateau. The third day you tackle the long
crossing of the plateau, at the end of which you will find camp
3 by going up a snow ridge (6,400 m). The ascent continues along
the ridge, up to the western shoulder of the summit, called
Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak (6,956 m). Camp 4 is in a snow-covered
col at 6,900 m. The route continues to the left over the snow
under the summit rocks, up to the col. This is the most difficult
part of the climb, because of the steepness and altitude. You
reach the top by climbing up the final 300 meters along the
northern ridge. You can descend to camp 4, or even camp 3, on
the same day. The record for the fastest climb up Mt. Communism
was set in 1990 by V. Obikhod and E. Klinezkiy, who took about
20 hours, without bivouacking, to get over the 3,300 meters
difference in height, reach the summit and then go back to the
base camp. The Yugoslav A. Stremeiy, who opened the Yugoslavs'
Route up Mt. Everest, holds another record: in 1983 he skied
down Mt. Communism along the Barodkin route.
The Burevestnik Route up Mt. Communism (7,495 m, 5A) - from
West side
From the base camp on the Fortambek glaciel you cross the glacier
(one hour) in the direction of the Burevestnik buttress, which
leads to the Pamirskoe plateau. Once past the last crevasse,
go over a rock wall that is not difficult and proceed up the
debris and snow and ice slopes until you reach the buttress
crest. This has debris that is interrupted by 2-3 mete walls
that are easily negotiated; it leads to . small snowy plateau
near the "Camel" gendarme (5,200 m). Here you can
pitch camp 1. Continue along the ridge, moving on to the. steep
snow and ice slope when necessary, until you reach the Parachutistov
rocks. Leave these rocks to your left and climb up to the Pamirskoe
plateau. I Tore you can set up camp 2 in snow cave (5,800 m).
If you are well acclimatised, you can skip camp I and go directly
to the plateau in 8 hours. Cross the plateau up to the base
of the southwestern buttress of Dushanbe Peak (4-6 hours, depending
on the condition of the snow); here you can set up camp 3 (6,f0
m). From here, go up the left-hand slope for a hour and over
the last crevasse; then go to the rocks of the southwestern
buttress, which . certain points are rubbly (40° incline).
You arrive at Dushanbe (Great Barrier) Peak after going up a
final snow and ice slope with a 40-45° incline; pitch camp in
the plateau (6,900 m), behind the summit. Skirt the rock tower
by bearing left, proceed along the little rock ridge, and then
continue along the steep and difficult northeastern snow ridge
(40° incline). Climb up the slope for the last 150 meters, and
you will arrive at the top. For the descent, take the same route;
it takes two days.
- from South side
Terrible South-west face of Peak Communism climbed by Kazbek
Valiev.
The Route up Chetiriokh (6,299 m) and Vorobiova Peaks (5,691
m, 2A)
(In the foto to the right) Panorama of peak Korzhenevskoy -
peak Chetiriokh.
Situated between the Moskvina and Waltera glaciers are these
two lovely snow-capped peaks that offer a splendid view of the
two 7,000 meter mountains. The first peak, Chetiriokh, is 6,299
m high. The route to its summit starts off from the Moskvina
camp. Go up the Moskvina glacier for about two hours until you
arrive at a little plateau. Opposite you will see the snow slope,
which at first is not steep and then as it approaches the summit
has an incline of 35-40°. Halfway up this slope, under a group
of rocks, you can pitch your tents to bivouac. The climb, rated
4A, takes two days between ascent and descent and can be done
on skis. Vorobiova Peak (5,691 m) is a large white dome with
a magnificent view. You get there from the Moskvina camp: go
up the Moskvina glacier moraine for about an hour, then up the
stone slope that leads to the snow ridge (3 hours). You can
bivouac here, but the climb to the top via the ridge and the
descent can be done in one day. These routes arc used as training
for the climbs up the 7,000 m mountains.
Originally called Kul-Santalak, the third peak in the Pamirs
over 7,000 meters high was "discovered" in 1910 by
a Russian geographer, N. Korzhenevskiy, who wanted to name it
after his wife Evgenia. It was climbed for the first time in
1953 by A, Agarov, who went up the northern side. The peak has
many complicated routes on its western face.
The route along the southern crest (opened by V. Tsetkin in
1966) is not too difficult and can easily be climbed in three
or four days after a suitable acclimatization period. From the
Moskvina base camp, follow the path along the torrent that descends
from the glacier on the southern side of the mountain, and then
continue to the right and cross the Moskvina glacier. Continue
along the rock and debris ridge until the slope becomes less
steep; here, at about 3,200 meters, you can set up camp 1. Proceed
along the glacier slope that descends on the southern side of
the mountain. The glacier is steep, so that rope, crampons,
ice axes and ice screws are necessary. Then the incline again
becomes less steep and the route approaches the moraine; here,
at 3,300 m, is another good place to set up camp 1. It is more
comfortable, with a splendid view that also takes in the entire
route.
You then go up the glacier along a slope that is not very
steep; at the beginning of the season the glacier is covered
with snow, but at the end deep crevasses open up. Then the
face becomes steep, leading to a triangle of rocks where you
can set up camp 2 (3,800 m) on a snowy terrace under an overhanging
roof.
The route continues to the right, up to the little col, with
a 1,000 meter crossing on ice that requires crampons, ice
axes, rope and ice pitons. This is one of the most difficult
and technical parts of the entire route. Usually a fixed rope
is to be found there. The crossing ends on a rather gentle
incline that arrives at the col on the southern ridge (6,100
m). You can pitch camp 2 here as well, but there is space
only for a few tents. Then you must tackle a small fifty-meter
tall face of steep rocks where there is a fixed rope. You
come out on the snow ridge, which is long and easy but may
be tiring because of the many ups and downs; this leads to
the top. There is no need for crampons here, as the snow is
usually soft and ski poles should suffice. Camp 3, where you
will also stop on the way back down, can be set up either
at 6,400 or 6,700 meters. The descent takes 24 hours. The
view of Mt. Communism is fantastic.
Peak Russia (6882 m). Normal route 5A
Peak Russia is situated near to Communism peak, joining to
him by the vast high plateau "Pravda". Peak Moscow
stands also
near to Communism peak, but in the opposite side. In the base
camp
on the glacier Fortambek the North face of Moscow peak rising
up in
all its grandeur. It is rather difficult to get to other sides
of Moscow
peak, as only helicopter flight can be used for it.
Moscow (6785 m) peak from glacier Surgan
Moscow (6785 m) peak N.W. crest
Moscow (6785 m) peak - North face
Moscow (6785 m) peak - from glacier Gando
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