Dushanbe
is a clean, green European city with wide, tree-lined streets and
pale, elegant buildings lend it an air of faded prosperity, and there
are plenty of cafes in which to enjoy tea and local sweets.
Its location beneath the snow-capped Hissar range in the wide valley
of the Varzob river.
Between 1929 and 1961, the city of Dushanbe was called Stalinabad.
The city of Dushanbe grew out of the village of Dushanbe. Records
show that as early as 1676, on each Monday of the week (Dushanbe),
villagers from the surrounding areas brought their produce to market
at this spot. In 1907, Dushanbe served as a summer resort for the
Bek of Hissar; in 1920, it housed Amir Alim Khan. The ousted Amir
of Bukhara stayed in Dushanbe and cooperated with the Basmachis until
he had to leave the region. From Dushanbe, he fled to Afghanistan
in 1921, the year the town was freed from the Basmachis as well. After
1921, Dushanbe became the administrative center of Eastern Bukhara.
Name
: Dushanbe
Population : c. 590,000
Language: Persian (Tajik)
Area code: 372
transportation: Dushanbe is connected to Termez and Tashkent
in Uzbekistan, by rail and to Kulab, Qurqanteppe, and Khorog,
the administrative center of Gorno-Badakhshan, by road.
Due to the mountainous terrain of the region, TRAVEL by plane
and helicopter often is preferred to TRAVEL by car.
Orientation:
Dushanbe is divided into four administrative zones: Rah Ahan, Markazi,
Oktiabr, and Frunze. Varzab, a suburb of Dushanbe, used to serve as
one of the prominent recreation areas for the former Soviet Union.
At the present time, the city serves as both the administrative center
of the republic of Tajikistan and the republic's largest industrial
and cultural center.
Dushanbe has two main bazaars: Barakat and Shamansur. A third bazaar
in the region of the new micro rayons is exclusive to that population.
During the summer, the bazaars teem with vegetables, fruits, flowers,
and people. In winter, they are all but deserted. Bread, meat, and
dried fruits are about all one can buy.
A
wonderful modern Opera Ballet theater and a number of art-related
institutes, museums, and studios, all centered in the city of Dushanbe.
More
The city also houses the Firdowsi Library, a major library with an
impressive collection of medieval Islamic manuscripts.
The main points of interest all lie on, or close to, Prospekt Rudaki
which runs from the railway station in the south to the bus station
in the north. As well as the principal mosque, this area boasts a
synagogue that dates back to the late 19th century, a Russian church
and a columned opera house. Don’t forget visiting a
Tajik market because, while you will find souvenirs, your senses will
be pleasantly bombarded and, unlike in many developing COUNTRIES,
no-one will harass you to buy anything. Lose yourself in the enormous
market on the road west from Dushanbe to the old Hissar Fort, where
women in traditional Tajik attire of long, psychedelically coloured
dresses and men in embroidered skullcaps sell everything from cotton
(one of Tajikistan’s main crops) to vegetables, jewellery, carpets
and furniture.
The
Tajik traditional Tea houses (chaikhana) with beautiful decorartion.
Walking down the streets of Dushanbe, a number of special features
attract your attention. A prominent one is the teahouse or the chaikhana.
You realize you are near a chaikhana when you hear the music filling
the air and when you see the many colorful benches that invite the
customers to take a few minutes of rest, drink tea and listen to
the gossip of the day. In addition to tea and sweets, kabob and
rice, are often also served.
Other features in the city include the National Museum of Antiquities
of Tajikistan and Unified Museum, situated just north of the railway
station in Ploshchad Aym, which has stuffed snow leopards and Marco
Polo sheep amongst its exhibits. The ethnographic museum is on ulitsa
Somoni, not far from the Hotel Tajikistan.
The
delightful clothes of the men and women from the villages (kishlaks)
is another interesting feature. Men wear the traditional jama (a
knee-long jacket) tied at the waist with a colorful mianband (kerchief).
Their taqi (skullcap) with its paisley design, distinguishes the
wearers by region. Women wear a kurta, made of soft, colorful, bright
silk, and a shalvar (long pants) with decorative cuffs (sheraz).
Women also wear hats with their national costume. The hats, especially
those imported from Bukhara and Badakhshan, are either embroidered
or decorated with precious stones. Village women mostly wear colorful
rusaris (scarf) tied in the back and worn in a decorative manner
more like a hat than for cover as a veil. Farmers and herders wear
a special heavy boot over their usual shoes. The older generation
wear long Islamic cloaks and turbans. Many of the older people wear
beards; they are referred to as aksakals (white beard) or muy sapids
(Tajik, lit. white hair).
Hissar
30-km
west of Dushanbe, on the wide mountain-fringed plain, you find the
remains of an 18th centuary fortress, occupied until 1924 by Ibrahim
Beg, the local henchman of the emir of Bukhara. Once a basmachi
strong hold, the, the fortress was destroyed by the Red Army and
all that remains is reconstructed.A scramble to the top is rewarded
with some excellent views. Two madressas (from 18th and 19th centuary)are
beside the fortress. The older medresssa (facing the fortress gate)
contains a small museum with displays of clothing, ceramics and
jewellery.
A 16th centuary mausoleum of Makhtum Azam (an Islamic master) is
beyond the medrassas. Visiting the calm and pleasant Chaykhane (Teahouse),
at the foot of the grassy slopes around the fortress is a must.
To get high quickly, contact Intourist, and ask to visit their boar-hunting
base north of Dushanbe in Hissar rang.
Varzob
Only 5km from the capital is the crumbling mountain resort of Varzob.
The winding road offers some beautiful views as it passes through
villages, before winding between dramatic rocky mountains and twisting
its way up to Varzob.
It is a delightful place -a valley with grass and trees as far up
as the eye can see, and a narrow but turbulent brook of blue but
foamy water at the bottom.
Various catering places, serving mostly kabob and fish, dot the
side of the brook. Your hosts will bring bread, vodka, and dried
nuts to complete what the caterers at the cafe offer.
*Excursion to the mountain passes of the Kara-Tak, north of Dushanbe,
walking 8-10km (5-6 miles) per day, with the baggage being carried
by donkeys, and staying in mountain villages.
Food & Drinks
Restaurants in Dushanbe: *Delhi Darbar
(Indian)
Address: 88 Rudaki Street, Dushanbe
Tel: +992 (0)372 -218 863, +992 (0)372 - 242 546
*Restaurant Elite(European & local style)
Address: Chapaev Street (opposite Radio House), Dushanbe
Tel: +992 (0)372- 212 512
*Bar-Restaurant Polonaise
(Exquisite European and Tajik cuisine)
Address: 2nd floor, 35/1 Bohtar Street , Dushanbe
Tel: +992 (0)372 - 212 526
*Restaurant Continent
(Mostly European cuisine with Continent specials )
Address:32, Boukhara Street , Dushanbe
Tel: +992 (0)372 - 214 498
*Bar/Restaurant Intourist-Tojikiston
(European & local style)
(22, Shotemur Street
Tel:+992 (0)372 - 217 077 , +992 (0)372 - 213 352
Fax:+992 (0)372 - 216 426
*Restaurant Kapris (European style)
Address: 32, Ghafurov Street, 82-y mikrorayon
Tel: +992 (0)372- 379 450
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Cafe, Bar in Dushanbe : *Shahrom (European
style)
Address:16, Kirov (Husein-Zoda) Street, Dushanbe
*Bar Manhattan
Address: 32, Shotemur Street, Dushanbe
*Bar Vostochny (local & Russian style)
Address: 56, Rudaki Avenue
*Cafe Romashka
Address: 33, Rudaki Avenue
*Bar Intourist-Tojikiston- Two bars
(European & local style)
(22, Shotemur Street
Tel:+992 (0)372 - 217 077 , +992 (0)372 - 213 352
Fax:+992 (0)372 - 216 426
*Bar Polonaise
(Exquisite European and Tajik cuisine)
Address: 2nd floor, 35/1 Bohtar Street , Dushanbe
Tel: +992 (0)372 - 212 526
*Rohat teahouse - (interesting)
(traditional Persian teahouse)
Address: 84, Rudaki street
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