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Adventure on the Great Pamir in Tajikistan

Peak Somoni (Kommunizm)

Peak Korjenevskaya 7105m

Peak Lenin7134m

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Peak Korjenevskaya 7105m

The region comprises a group of ranges with more then 50 mountains over 6000 metres. The biggest is the Academi Nauk Range, which is approached from the north-west by Peter the Great Range. At the meeting place of the two is the Pamir's highest mountain, Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communizma) 7495ms. Further to the north, in the Academi Nauk Range, is the mountain Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7105ms). These two giants overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200ms), with a finy lake and a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. The place is encircled by three glaciers, Walter, traube and Moskvina, and used as the startng point to both summits, Ice-climbing enthusiasts will find there good seracs for practice.

The base camp on the moraine is an oazis of civilization in the desert of mountains. Helicopter provides the only link between the base camp and the outside world. The noise of rotating propeller is the most welcome sound for climbers in the area. In spite of all these difficulties, the trk is worth trying. The Pamir tract, mostly uninhabited and dotted with endless desolate clearings and occasional lively oasises, impresses by it's gradeur and mystery.

The northern slopes also have difficult routes, however, the route via the northern ridge does not pose serious technical problems. The classical route to the top of Mt. Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya is laid on the southern slope, a convenience for climbers. Both routes (V-UIAA) are well-explored and, under normal conditions, quite safe. The magnificence of the panoramic view from eother summit defies description. It has to be tried in person. Central Pamir is known for it's mostly stable weather with some exceptions in the areas of Mts. Peak Ismoili Somoni (Communizm) and Peak Revolutsii.

Mt. Evgenia Korjenevskaya was explored in 1910 by a Russian scientist Nikolai Korjenevsky, who named the mountain after his wife Evgenia. The first ascent of the mountain was made in October 1953. Coping with high altitude on Peak E. Korjenavskaya proved easier than other mountains of comparable hight. This is why it is considered an agreeable place for acclimatization.

PEAK E. KORJENEVSKAYA (7105MS) Classical route: via southern fidge

Day 1	Arrival to Dushanbe. Accomodation in hotel.
Day 2	Breakfast. transfer to alpin base "Varzob" (53 km. 1. 5 hours). Base camp 1.
Day 3-6	Walking and Shot climbing. First acclimatization. Back to). Base camp 2, 3, 4, 5.
Day 7	Helicopter transfer Dushanbe-Moskvina lade (1h40min); H-4200 m. Base camp 6.
Day 8-10	Acclimatisation. ). H-4200 m. Base camp 7.
Day 11	Moskvina glade-Mt. Peak Chetyriokh. Ascent via eastern slope (4-5hs)Camping. H-4800 m. camp 8.
Day 12	Camp (4800ms) - Summit (6300ms) – back to Base Camp H-4800 m. camp 9.
Day 13	Back to base camp. H-4200 m. Base camp 10.
Day 14	Rest. H-4200 m. Base camp 11.
Day 15-16	Base camp-Mt. Peak E. Korjenevskaya Camp (5100ms). Via moraine up the glacier (5-6hs) H-5100 m. camp 12.
Day 17	Camp (5100m)-Camp (5800ms). Up the glacier and western ice-snow slope (4-5hs). H-5800 m. camp 13.
Day 18	Camp (5800m) - Camp (6300ms). traverse across western slope to southern ridge (6-7hs). H-6300m. camp 14.
Day 19	Camp (6300ms) - Summit - Camp (6300ms) (7-8hs). H-6300 m. camp 15.
Day 20	Camp (6300ms) - Camp (5100ms) (5-6hs). H-5100 m. camp 16.
Day 21	Camp (5100ms) - Base camp (4-5hs). H-4200 m. Base camp 17.
Day 22	Reserved. Rest, sauna and showing. H-4200 m. Base camp 18.
Day 23	Base camp-Dushanbe. Helicopter transfer (3h20min). transfer to hotel. Accomodation in hotel.
Day 24	Breakfast. Full day an excursion on city. Hotel, rest.
Day 25	Departure to home.

Days	25
Season	10. 07 - 31. 08.
Min. group of	4 - 15