Adventure on the Great Pamir in Tajikistan Pamir TRAVEL

Peak Somoni (Kommunizm)

The region comprises a group of ranges with more then 50 mountains over 6000 metres. The biggest is the Academy of science Range, which is approached from the north-west by Peter the Great Range. At the meeting place of the two is the Pamir's highest mountain, Peak Communizma (7495ms).

Further to the north, in the Academi Nauk Range, is the mountain Peak Evgenia Korjenevskaya (7105ms). These two giants overlook a large moraine, Moskvina Glade (4200ms), with a finy lake and a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. The place is encircled by three glaciers, Walter, traube and Moskvina, and used as the starting point to both summits, Ice-climbing enthusiasts will find there good seracs for practice.

Peak KommunizmThe base camp on the moraine is an oazis of civilization in the desert of mountains. Helicopter provides the only link between the base camp and the outside world. The noise of rotating propeller is the most welcome sound for climbers in the area. In spite of all these difficulties, the track is worth trying. The Pamir tract, mostly uninhabited and dotted with endless desolate clearings and occasional lively oasises, impresses by it's tremendeous and mystery.

Pamir's highest mountain, Peak of Ismoili Somoni (Communism), plunges to the south in three-kilometer wall, one of the most difficult ones in the world. The northern slopes also have difficult routes, however, the route via the northern ridge does not pose serious technical problems. Helicopter assisted programms apart from being time-saving, give a birds eye view of the alpine scenary. Mt. Peak Communizm was explored in 1928. A British party of eight climbers were the first Europians to reach the summit in 1962. The mountains is notorious for it's winds even during clear skies. The programme is rather difficult for unexperienced climbers who have not gone through a prior acclimatisation spell on Mt. Peak E. Korjenevskaya. However, well-trained and skilled mountaineers will be able to reach the loftiest summit of the 'Roof of the World" in a short period of time. MT. PEAK OF ISMOILI SOMONI (COMMUNIZM)- 7495m.

Classical route: From Walter Glacier via Pamir big Plato and Mt. Peak Dushanbe (6900ms).

Day 1

Arrival to Dushanbe. Accomodation in hotel.

Day 2

Breakfast, drive to Alpin base "Varzob" (53km, 1. 5 hours). Overnight in H-1500 m. Base camp.

Day 3-6

Breakfast, light climbing in area. Acclimatization. Night. H-1500 m. Base camp.

Day 7

Helicopter transfer Dushanbe-Moskvina Glade (4200ms) (1h40hs)+ 1. 40. H-4200 m. Camping 1.

Day 8

Acclimatisation. On Moscvina glacier H-4200m. H-4200 m. Camping 3.

Day 9-11

9-11 Acclimatization an the Moscwin glacier H-4200 m. Camping 4-5.

Day 12

Moskvina glade-Mt. Peak Chetyriyokh. Ascent via eastern slope. Camp 6 (H-4800ms).

Day 13

Camp (4800ms) - Summit – back to Base camp (8-9hs) H-4200 m. Camping 7.

Day 14

Rest. H-4200 m. Camping 8.

Day 15

Preparation for ascent. H-4200 m. Camping 9.

Day 16

Base camp - Mt. Peak of Ismoili Somoni ( Communizma). track up Walter glacier. traverce through northern slope. (4-5hs). Camp (5100ms). H-100m. Camping 10.

Day 17

Camp (5100ms) - Camp (5800ms). Northern ridge (4-5hs). H-5800 m. Camping 11.

Day 18

Camp (5800ms) - Camp (6100ms). Pamir big Plateau (4-5hs) H-6100 m. Camping 12.

Day 19

Camp (6900ms) northern ice-snow slope of Mt. Peak Dushanbe (7-8hs). H-6900 m. Camping 13.

Day 20

Camp (6900ms) - summit - back to camp (6900ms) (8-9hs). H-6900 m. Camping 14.

Day 21

Camp (6900ms) - Camp (6100ms). Pamir Big Plateau. H-6100 m. Camping 15.

Day 22

Camp (6100ms) - Camp (5100ms) (5-6hs). H-5100 m. Camping 1.

Day 23

Camp (5100ms) -Base camp (3-4hs). H-4200 m. Camping 1.

Day 24 Reserved. Rest, sauna.
Day 25

Base camp - to Dushanbe, by Helicopter transfer (3h20min). Hotel.

Day 26

Breakfast. Full day excursions on city. Hotel, rest.

Day 27

Departure to home.

Days 27

10. 07 - 31. 08

Min. group of 4 - 15

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